SCALLOP SHAPES
(FRONT VIEW)
Stovepipe
ShallowScallop
Full Rounded Scallop
Free Form
ANATOMY
OF A BOOT
Use this page to familiarize yourself with the terms used to describe the different components and styles used in bootmaking.
PULL STYLES
(SIDE VIEW)
Overlay
Traditional
Interior
Mule-ear
Floral Tongue
Leafy Tongue
Curved Tongue
Narrow Tongue
TONGUE SHAPES
Roper “Walking Heel”
Heel Height
“Under Cut” Heel Profile
HEELS
Welted Sole
(all boots, including dress boots)
Cemented Sole
(dress boots only)
SOLE CONSTRUCTION
(TOP VIEW)
Round Toes
Box Toes
TOE SHAPES
DECORATIVE TECHNIQUES
I honor the creative solutions to functional needs in the western bootmaking tradition.
Stitched patterns on the boot shafts developed in response to a need to hold the lining leather to the tops before adequate long-lasting cements did the job. Continuing a long tradition of gendered work in footwear production where women closed the uppers before men built the shoes, historically women often were the top-stitchers for male bootmakers.
As these techniques offered bootmakers more and more opportunity for decorative expression, beautiful patterns and leather working techniques formed an anthology visual ornamentation:
Inlay is a technique where holes cut into the top leather are backed by leathers of different colors and textures, then stitched all together to decorative effect.
Overlay is a technique where one layer of leather is stitched over a background leather.
Hand embroidery holds a niche place in the history of bootmaking. A slow and mindful embellishment, I deliberately incorporate hand-embroidery in my bootmaking to honor the undervalued contribution of women to decorative arts over time, to continue a new language of boot patterns for the next generation to follow.
Dyeing crust leather presents a unique opportunity to enrich my decorative patterns. Crust leather has been tanned to a point just before color and finishing waxes seal the surface. I use products from Orion Calf to enhance my inlay, both as a valued slow process and as a truly
Free Form
Full Rounded Scallop
ShallowScallop
Stovepipe
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.
SCALLOP SHAPES
Stovepipe
ShallowScallop
Full Rounded Scallop
Free Form
SCALLOP SHAPES
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.
Free Form
Full RoundedScallop
ShallowScallop
Stovepipe
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.
SCALLOP SHAPES
Mule Ear
Interior
Overlay
Traditional
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.