![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d2c3dd25ebd84c85bcd8dd7bb16e3ee3~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/ScallopShapes.png)
SCALLOP SHAPES
(FRONT VIEW)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d2639ac6f439490c8c1a09822f40f445~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/ShallowScallop.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_59363e70c08d4e358ddaf50467220b8e~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/FreeForm.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_87448c79df2b4f32b88088a619700722~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/FullRoundedScallop.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d962920cd52f40a395298314b0f29b2d~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Stovepipe.png)
Stovepipe
ShallowScallop
Full Rounded Scallop
Free Form
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_05433a00cb4846679d072679ed80c76d~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Pull-Styles.png)
PULL STYLES
(SIDE VIEW)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_371db4a481614cad8efaf0f3d989a5a4~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Overlay.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_c6c03b1f2f094cd8bdf5ef634aa3fdec~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Traditional.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_aa47ed88832c4f45b3bce18362f138b3~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/MuleEar.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_5c793bea7a824241aeddc1e2a273a6fd~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Interior.png)
Overlay
Traditional
Interior
Mule-ear
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_0b7a934bca1840b8adfd88364d17d6b3~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/TongueShapes.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d903ef39c5aa4576b31545b915561cdf~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/FloralTongue.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_e88e6a1841774081ba1622bcf61b151a~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/LeafyTongue.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_251cc47415dc43628da6cb59079ece00~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/NarrowTongue.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_41f658941ea741b7ad4727ba3f412be1~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/CurvedTongue.png)
Floral Tongue
Leafy Tongue
Curved Tongue
Narrow Tongue
TONGUE SHAPES
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_f322b0b69dc54aedae94fb40c07a3bfb~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Heels.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_ad5afa23e56843e58de6613939820c97~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/RoperWalkingHeel.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d165d33de17f482e992f669a77257ede~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/HeelHeight.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_ea1f08a194994033a6782b9bdb89e6a5~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_490,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/UnderCutHeelProfile.png)
Roper “Walking Heel”
Heel Height
“Under Cut” Heel Profile
HEELS
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_4d8f4c6f0ba84126a7383b863d6a39b2~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/SoleConstruction.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_b570a43008d345c2a8aba14b10a9a179~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_1960,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/WeltedSole.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_ba814be91dec46d1836ba28fe2d5c682~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_1960,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/CementedSole.png)
Welted Sole
(all boots, including dress boots)
Cemented Sole
(dress boots only)
SOLE CONSTRUCTION
(TOP VIEW)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_9cfd5e626ff2405eae6594e7bc3a9cce~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/ToeShapes.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_1b7aefab95684aa69d50825d896c328c~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_1960,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/RoundToe.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_a919f2e78d2e4c3180eb43fcf715e8d5~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_1960,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/BoxToe.png)
Round Toes
Box Toes
TOE SHAPES
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_c38ac8cfbee94f409a4cc6a17d32c1b2~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_666,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Lasts.png)
LASTS
Forms shaped based on your measurements and used to make the boots.
DECORATIVE TECHNIQUES
I honor the creative solutions to functional needs in the Western bootmaking tradition.
Stitched patterns on the boot shafts developed in response to a need to hold the lining leather to the tops before adequate long-lasting cements did the job. Continuing a long tradition of gendered work in footwear production where women closed the uppers before men built the shoes, historically women often were the top-stitchers for male bootmakers.
As these techniques offered bootmakers more and more opportunity for decorative expression, beautiful patterns and leather working techniques formed an anthology of visual ornamentation:
Inlay is a technique where holes cut into the top leather are backed by leathers of different colors and textures, then stitched all together to decorative effect.
Overlay is a technique where one layer of leather is stitched over a background leather.
Hand embroidery holds a niche place in the history of bootmaking. A slow and mindful embellishment, I deliberately incorporate hand-embroidery in my bootmaking to honor the undervalued contribution of women to decorative arts over time, to continue a new language of boot patterns for the next generation to follow.
Dyeing crust leather presents a unique opportunity to enrich my decorative patterns. Crust leather has been tanned to a point just before color and finishing waxes seal the surface. I use products from Orion Calf to enhance my inlay.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_98aee0edc9ba4d559aa4119a3e7dbb73~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_820,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/DecorativeTechniques-.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_46da2fec47d44a72bbfd0f858545fc9b~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Saboteuse-BootAnatomyMain-SQ.png)
ANATOMY
OF A BOOT
Use this page to familiarize yourself with the terms used to describe the different components and styles used in bootmaking.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_6a5f1efc0d8d4ecfbd291c6b4ea76d22~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_551,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Saboteuse-BootAnatomy.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d962920cd52f40a395298314b0f29b2d~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Stovepipe.png)
Stovepipe
SCALLOP SHAPES
The topline of a boot typically has a thin strip of leather beading for structure and stability. A deep scallop allows the leg more ease of movement, while a stove-pipe top shows off custom-made fit.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d2639ac6f439490c8c1a09822f40f445~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/ShallowScallop.png)
Shallow Scallop
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d570679d17db4bdea9bbe5057d80ce53~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/ScallopShapes.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_87448c79df2b4f32b88088a619700722~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/FullRoundedScallop.png)
Full Rounded Scallop
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_59363e70c08d4e358ddaf50467220b8e~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/FreeForm.png)
Free Form
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_371db4a481614cad8efaf0f3d989a5a4~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Overlay.png)
Overlay
PULL STYLES
Pull straps are a functional part of the boot making it easier to pull on the boot with your fingers or boot hooks. They offer a wide potential of visual styles in their construction and decoration.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_c6c03b1f2f094cd8bdf5ef634aa3fdec~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Traditional.png)
Traditional
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_5ba21c8c54ee4379a2e41cac464ef32f~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/PullStyles.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_5c793bea7a824241aeddc1e2a273a6fd~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Interior.png)
Interior
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_aa47ed88832c4f45b3bce18362f138b3~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/MuleEar.png)
Mule-ear
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_d903ef39c5aa4576b31545b915561cdf~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/FloralTongue.png)
Floral Tongue
TONGUE SHAPES
Each maker and brand tends to have a tongue profile or two that identifies their work. A narrower tongue on a custom-made boot hugs the foot just so, marrying style to function.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_e88e6a1841774081ba1622bcf61b151a~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/LeafyTongue.png)
Leafy Tongue
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_44efd96843ca4bc281e87eb50112eb6a~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/TongueShapes.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_41f658941ea741b7ad4727ba3f412be1~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/CurvedTongue.png)
Curved Tongue
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_251cc47415dc43628da6cb59079ece00~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/NarrowTongue.png)
Narrow Tongue
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_63d2d60a01354463a9705028b53a9e67~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/RoperWalkingHeel.png)
Roper “Walking Heel”
HEELS
Traditional western boots have a high heel with a flat breast to keep a horse rider’s foot from sliding through a stirrup. This heel pushed the instep forward, resulting in an iconic profile recognized around the world.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_90b3adae5b6d4c3ab3fb88d3f70b5f8b~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/HeelHeight.png)
Heel Height
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_1e9a95e20e87488ca76621c2bb37d774~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/Heels.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_337b3affa706437fb7ba70c0099e172e~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/UndercutHeelProfile.png)
“Under Cut” Heel Profile
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_1550b6f0ffa842f299962f5ed6f61388~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/SpanishHeel.png)
Cuban Heel
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_1a1909efac17466b8b849da1b8d31982~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_490,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/WeltedSole.png)
Welted Sole(all boots, including dress boots)
SOLE CONSTRUCTION
Welted boots are designed with intent to repair, and are so solidly built they can be a tough, working tool. A finer dress boot might have a narrow welt, or cemented construction for a lighter, delicate look.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_f6f1395eaed5472e993670c4585a6cbd~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/SoleConstruction.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_87e04eec42924e889864c6cd53044f15~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_490,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/CementedSole.png)
Cemented Sole(dress boots only)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_5c124477562f410e9cbf4de736e7b960~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_490,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/RoundToeBox.jpg)
Round Toes
TOE SHAPES
On well-made boots the toe shape is an aesthetic choice, built forward of the toes. Narrower toe profiles developed to ease a boot in and out of a stirrup.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_202842621e1e45579adc978647402ffd~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_980,h_980,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/ToeShapes.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e39502_b250e35cf83d4b2f9a6d1c3f3ee7371f~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_490,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/BoxToe.jpg)
Box Toes